There’s nothing more iconic of a hobby or sport as the classic mountain axe. It calls forth images of thin, muscular men clinging to steep snow or ice with arms of steel; distant optimism and concentration pouring from their gazes.
The axe, through no fault of its own, has inherited a dual symbology that represents both the philosophic and the pragmatic nature of the sport. The axe is a special piece [of equipment] that belongs in every person’s cadre of tools. Though, even when lumped in with all the other accouterments, the axe retains a singular degree of importance and immediate recognition.
While slowly waking through your local REI, Gander Mountain, EMS etc. perusing the wiles and wares, you'll discover that axes come in different sizes, styles and uses. While the adage, “One size fits all” can be applied to axes, this snippet does lose some of its relativity as ones skill and experience increases. Though, make no mistake, shopping for an axe can be confusing. But if mountaineering is going to be in your future, whether professionally or as a “Weekend Warrior,” axes are a tool you'll need to be knowledgeable of. Having the right axe and the proper cognizance/au covrant can save your life.
To start, when I think of axes, I use two main categories: General all-purpose axes and technical axes. I suppose you could also make the case for adding piloets as a third, but for the sake of simplicity, I'll add them to technical and talk about them there.
HISTORY
The progenitor of the axe originated in Europe sometime during the 16th century. It looked nothing like the current short shaft axes we use now. 'Alpenstocks,' as they were referred to as, were basically nothing more than 5'-8' long wooden poles adorned with iron tips. These were frequently used by shepherds and pastoral travelers to ease passage across glaciers and snowfields of the high Alps. If the terrain was expected to be difficult, icy or prohibitive, a small hand-held axe was often carried. This is how travel was largely accomplished for the next 250 years, give or take.
Taken from Wikipedia,
“In the second half of the 19th century, seeing that the traditional but
unwieldy alpenstock might be a useful aide to climb steep slopes of
snow or ice, Victorian Alpinists fashioned a sharpened blade (pick) to
the top of the alpenstock; this was used to provide a positive aid. On
the opposite side, a flattened blade was placed (adze) which was used
for cutting steps into the snow or ice, an essential technique…”
Once these new, revolutionary pieces were added to the alpenstock, the days of the long baton slowly came to an end. Over the course of the next 150 odd years, this new alpenstock changed with its intended use to be more practical until it morphed into what we currently use. However one wants to view axes, there’s no denying that the Alps were the birthplace of the axe.
General Mountain Axe
There are many versions of this with each manufacturer claiming their product is superior over the competition. Different sizes exist; different head types and different pick designs exist to cater to the intended use for each axe. But the overall form of the axe will be unchanged. To start, the SHAFT is essentially the spine of the axe. The HEAD is probably the most recognizable feature and is what some would call, “the Business end.” The PICK is the pointed piece at the bottom tip of the shaft and is usually driven into the snow on easier terrain.
Axes come in sizes ranging from 50cm to about 80cm. There is no wrong choice when choosing but it is generally recommended having an axe based on your height and intended use. For instance, climbing a steep couloir where the pitch (inclination) exceeds 50°, it would be best to have an axe with a short shaft (50-65cm) as the slope rises up to your grasp. On an open snowfield or glacier, having a long-shafted axe is more beneficial. To size one up, stand upright in a relaxed posture. If the tip of the axe touches the snow, you have an appropriate axe. To emphasize, if you take a fall down a steep chute with an inappropriately sized axe (too long), you can self-arrest but you diminish your chances of successfully stopping your tumble due to a loss of leverage on your axe. This is where a short axe is more adequate as it increases your weight to length ratio (leverage). Long axes are generally best for trekking, hiking, scrambling and glacier travel. They are generally heavier and good for building 'deadman' snow anchors.
Short axes (<60cm) are best for moderate to advanced couloirs and chutes, better for firn and ice and are generally lighter with more aggressive picks. I consider these to be semi-technical axes.
Summit pictures or “action shots” look great with an aggressively styled axe but remember you’re climbing for safety, not fashion. After you take your first real fall (which I promise you will never forget), you’ll learn first-hand, safety is about pragmatism, not aesthetics.
So we know what an axe looks like, what they’re made to do and a little about lengths. But what do the features do for us? Here’s the break-down:
Head: The head comprises the most recognizable feature of the axe. Also, it’s where the ‘business end’ is located. The head actually consists of two separate features and depending on the manufacture,
the head can be inserted and then riveted or welded into the shaft. The pick is what’s used most frequently. It anchors you into the slope or wall and is the feature you rely on for self-arrest. It also sees high use, so it will eventually wear down. The pick however, is not always the same. General all-purpose axes will have a more passive pick (more horizontal in relation to the head) as opposed to technical axes which will have an aggressive curvature that’s needed for near vertical terrain. Some picks actually have holes bored through the. Though this does nothing for performance and saves little on weight.
The adze is useful for chopping steps or notches into hard snow and ice. It can also be used as a small make shift shovel. As an alternative to the adze, some axes have the capability to switch out the adze for a hammer. The hammer is good to have when driving pickets into a slope or even pitons or blades when mixed climbing. But the route and or conditions can judge all this. Some will argue that one is better than the other. Both have practicality but I have used the adze far more often.
Tip: The tip of the axe may not be what people refer to the business end, but I assure you, it receives the lions’ share of abuse. I like to think of the tip as the ‘work horse’ of an axe. It will more often than not, penetrate the snow slope, plunge into a couloir, a glacier, judge snow depth and can be used as a fragile anchor. Because of all this, like the pick, the tip will wear down quickly.
Even though the shaft of an axe can frequently be aluminum, the head and tip/spike (ferrule) is usually something harder like steel. They will overall, take most of the abuse and force exerted on it and can over time, become chipped, loose or even rusty. I still have my first axe and the spike on it is rounded and dull; the pick, loose and wobbly. It no longer sees action except for rock scrambles. But I keep it as a testament to my outdoor education and years of memories. I finally retired it after 20 years of abuse. I’d say that was money well spent!
Probably the other part (accessory) of an axe that I think is [absolutely] necessary is the leash. You can buy leashes specifically sold for axes (as I initially did) or you can buy various lengths of webbing and create your own. So what does this do? Almost everyone has stories of taking a fall or slide and losing control of their axe or worse, dropping it. The leash is your insurance that when things go wrong, you won’t lose control of one of your most valuable tools. Some leashes can be short and tighter to the body giving immediate control and less distance from body to slope. Some prefer a longer leash. The distance is greater but this affords a greater mobility and ease when switching hands. When not in use, having a greater distance of leash, one can “holster” the axe in ones climbing harness or waist strap to stow it until it is needed. But this is largely personal preference.
When it comes to choosing a brand of axe, most of this will strictly be preference (except for highly technical or specialized climbing). Companies like: Petzl, Camp, Grivel, Black Diamond, Cassin, and RMI, Omega Pacific etc. all make quality pieces. The important thing is to do your homework, try a few out in the stores, and get a feel for what feels better in your grip according to your activity. Narrow down what you’re looking for in terms of features and once you settle on something, test it out!
I won’t go much into technical axes because these cater to the professional/advanced climber who depends on them often for their life. These axes are often highly specialized with massively curved heads, aggressive picks and even curved shafts to ease the angle of swinging into vertical terrain that typically includes a mix of bare rock and ice. The picks can also be adjusted to increase or decrease the angle or removed all together for different picks. These axes will also typically come with hammers vs. an adze. You can also expect to spend a lot more money.
I hope this little intro helps explain some of the nuances and basics of mountain axes and hopefully, steer you to become a more informed buyer. The basics can be easily understood but as with everything, the “Devil is in the details.” Good luck!